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Old 01-27-2013, 08:53 PM
WTNUT WTNUT is offline
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Default M111 vs. B118 rootstock

Will some of the experts give me a short common sense outline of the uses, advantages and disadvantages or each?
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:57 PM
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CrazyED CrazyED is offline
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Location: Beach Sands of South Central, WI - Zone 4B
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Choosing a rootstock for your wildlife orchard

Ben's Info:

Rootstock selection is not an easy task. Orchardists pain over choosing a rootstock, so don't feel bad. I've put together a list of rootstocks that I think are appropriate for wildlife plantings. The descriptions are from my own observation, not based on any scientific data....Here is what I recommend..at this point at least. Starting with the most preferred...quick..read it before I change my mind.


B118 produces a tree that is up to 95% of full size. It is well anchored, disease resistant and winter hardy. Bud 118 survived -30F at my house. Bud 118 is more productive and early bearing than other standard size rootstocks. It has never suckered (at my place) and seems to tolerate a variety of soils.


M111 is a good choice for people that are looking for a rootstock that tolerates heavier soils. M111 makes a 75% size tree. M111 anchors well, and does well with early bearing and spur varieties. M111 is slow to get going, and doesn't do much year 1-3, but once it gets going, puts on lots of wood. M111 has spy in it's parentage, and I blame its slow bearing on that...?? On most locations, M111 produced fruit by year 5-8 at my place, but did not produce quantity until after 10 years.
Wildflower seed on the sand and wind. may the four winds blow you home again.

CrazyED's Fruit Tree Thread

The QDMAer's Fruit Tree Resource Thread

Last edited by CrazyED : 01-27-2013 at 09:57 PM.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:39 PM
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popeyoung9 popeyoung9 is offline
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Thanks Crazy for the info. All my crabapples fro Hortonville are b118 this year.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:37 AM
Apple Man Apple Man is offline
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Location: northwestern vermont
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Originally Posted by WTNUT View Post
Will some of the experts give me a short common sense outline of the uses, advantages and disadvantages or each?

As a Northern Grower in Northwestern Vermont, I have had the opportunity
to grow apple trees on both M111 and B118. Based on my observations
B118 is far superior for growth rate, yield efficiency, and early bearing.
Winter mortality due to extremely low tempertures is quite low for both
rootstocks, but most studies show B118 as being the more winter hardy
of the two. I sell around 2000 trees every year, all of which are now offered
on B118 rootstock. Over the years, I have eliminated G30, MM7, M106, and
M111 from the list favoring the B118 for its distinct advantages.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:33 PM
soswine soswine is offline
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Little Rock, AR - zone 7a
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Wish y'all had started this a couple weeks ago before I ordered trees on m111. Wonder if I can swap since the order isn't supposed to ship until march. Any speculation on impact of our longer growing season down here?
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:44 AM
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Bnhpr Bnhpr is offline
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The only advantage i can see with M111 over B118 is that you can actually get away without staking M111.

Why? Because it doesnt fruit until it has a 4" dia. Buy a puppy when you plant your M111 and when the dogs so old you have to put it down, you will start getting a couple apples off your M111 tree.

Just to keep in perspective.

A thinker sees his own actions as experiments and questions--as attempts to find out something. Success and failure are for him answers above all.

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Old 01-29-2013, 08:54 AM
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leexrayshady leexrayshady is offline
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Location: MN North Todd County zone 4a
Posts: 528

Dont know if this has been posted before but some good info on cold hardy rootstocks for wisconsin, apple, pears, plums and others

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