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Old 10-19-2012, 12:58 PM
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bbarrett bbarrett is offline
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Default dunstan chestnut seeds arrived today

Ordered some dunstan chestnuts from Chestnut ridge of pike county. 18 lbs arrived today..

This year ordered more than I wanted because my wife fussed that she couldnt eat any of them last year.. So may be buying extra will make up for what has become an annual fridge take over of bags of peat moss and seeds..

I want to look into direct planting of chestnuts this year... I enjoy growning them in the house. but looking to seed a much larger area

any body had success with direct seeding? what method did you use to protect the seedlings and nut from everything.??

thinking a 12 inch ridgid tube with a mesh or chicken wire 4-5 foot tube extending above..

ideas?

Bryan

Last edited by bbarrett : 10-19-2012 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:01 PM
Happy Hunter Happy Hunter is offline
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Question if you dont mind. I take it you have done this before, did you take the dunstan chestnuts from there and plant them in a pot and then transplant them in previous years? How did they do? I am interested in trying this. If I order these, should i refrigerate them until spring, or go ahead and plant them in an indoor pot? Thanks in advance!

HH
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:22 PM
brushpile brushpile is offline
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I haven't directly planted Dunstans, but I have directly planted 100s of Allegheny Chinkapin, which is a small chestnut. 100% of mine were eaten by rodents..... 100%! Dunstans can be open planted, but you would need to make it rodent proof.

Chicken wire will not stop small rodents.
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:49 PM
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bbarrett bbarrett is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Hunter View Post
Question if you dont mind. I take it you have done this before, did you take the dunstan chestnuts from there and plant them in a pot and then transplant them in previous years? How did they do? I am interested in trying this. If I order these, should i refrigerate them until spring, or go ahead and plant them in an indoor pot? Thanks in advance!

HH

fridge in moist peat/soil mix for 60-90 days. Then when ready to start growing i pull them out in small batches and keep in 10 qt tubs covered in moist peat/potting mix. When they start to send out a tap root, I plant then in rootmaker 18 cells for a while then have transplanted them out at that stage or into root trapper bags for planting later.

unlike oaks that seem to like the rootmaker cells... I found that chestnuts didnt do as well in the cells. But seem to do well in the bags.
my plan this year is to put them in root maker cells only till they send up top growth then move to 1 gallon bags or plant directly at that point..

If I lived where I was planning to plant these I wouldnt worry much about it.. but it is a royal pain the tail to try to transport a large number of seedlings 900 mile to the farm.
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:50 PM
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bbarrett bbarrett is offline
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Originally Posted by brushpile View Post
I haven't directly planted Dunstans, but I have directly planted 100s of Allegheny Chinkapin, which is a small chestnut. 100% of mine were eaten by rodents..... 100%! Dunstans can be open planted, but you would need to make it rodent proof.

Chicken wire will not stop small rodents.


this is what I am looking for... what do I got to do to make them rodent proof?????
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:24 PM
yoderj@cox.net yoderj@cox.net is offline
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I have not done this yet, but on another thread, a guy was talking about using window screen from Lowes or Home Depot to put around the short tubes.

I got 5 lbs (199) chestnuts in the vegetable crisper right now stratifying. I've been looking at different methods for planting. I'm leaning away from direct seeding and toward planting seedlings and saplings.

The latest reading I've done says not to use tree tubes taller than a foot or two. Evidently chestnuts grow tall and spindly quickly and can't support themselves several years down the road.

Right now I'm leaning toward planting about half as seedlings in the spring directly out of the rootmaker trays. I bought 18" tree tubes for these and right now I'm leaning toward plastic mesh browse protection slid over the tube.

I'm planning to transfer the other half to 1 gal root trapper bags for the spring/summer and planting them in the fall or winter. I'm still working out cost effective browse protection for these. I'm sure I'll cage some of them. I'm also thinking of planting a group of them in a mini orchard and using a gallagher style e-fence to protect the lot. I already have the fence, so I would be re-purposing it from my soybean experiment.

This will be my first crack at planting chestnuts from seed, so don't take anything I've said as the "best way". My approach has largely been a composite of posts from this forum along with some other reading I've done.

Right now, I'm setting up grow lights on a folding table in front of the family room sliding glass doors to the deck. YES! MY WIFE IS A SAINT!

Thanks,

Jack

Last edited by yoderj@cox.net : 10-19-2012 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:07 AM
THERAPY THERAPY is offline
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I also got mine from Chestnut Ridge of Pike County this week. (20# large)

This year was my first go at growing Dunstans. I started most in larger containers until taproot emerged then moved to 18 cell rootmaker as bbarrett described. Babied them all summer in the pots and just planted them in the field this week.

I direct seeded about 20 seeds in their permanant home around the middle of January. Half of those had no protection, and I have not found a single one of them. The other half, I had a piece of vinyl gutter downspout laying around, cut it into 12" pieces planted the seed and stuck the downspout over it pressed into the ground. I have 9 out of 10 that have survived.
The first 2 pics are the same tree about a month apart.
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For this coming year I bought 10 sticks of the vinyl downspout and have them cut to 6", so I have 200 protectors (I hope). Around April or May, I plan to remove them to use the following year and place the rigid mesh protectors on them.

One article I read suggested using 10" tall rolled aluminum coil trim. Then cutting into 12" sections, rolling to form a cone shape with the top slightly smaller than the bottom and taping it. They also suggested using a stryoform cup with several holes poked in the top placed on top of the tubes until the seeds started putting on top growth.

Just thought I would share my experiences from the past year. I continue to look for ideas on ways to improve my chances for success and thank others here on the forums for sharing their knowledge and experiences.
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  #8  
Old 10-20-2012, 12:18 AM
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letemgrow letemgrow is offline
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Tree tubes in the ground 1-2" will make them rodent proof. Keep the ground bare dirt to start with in a 4' circle till they get going. I seed lots of acorns and chestnuts yearly and it works well.

Like this...this was a direct seeded American Chestnut nut...deer proof too as u can tell

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Last edited by letemgrow : 11-08-2012 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:55 PM
setexashunter setexashunter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THERAPY View Post
I also got mine from Chestnut Ridge of Pike County this week. (20# large)

This year was my first go at growing Dunstans. I started most in larger containers until taproot emerged then moved to 18 cell rootmaker as bbarrett described. Babied them all summer in the pots and just planted them in the field this week.

I direct seeded about 20 seeds in their permanant home around the middle of January. Half of those had no protection, and I have not found a single one of them. The other half, I had a piece of vinyl gutter downspout laying around, cut it into 12" pieces planted the seed and stuck the downspout over it pressed into the ground. I have 9 out of 10 that have survived.
The first 2 pics are the same tree about a month apart.
Attachment 38594
Attachment 38595
Attachment 38596

For this coming year I bought 10 sticks of the vinyl downspout and have them cut to 6", so I have 200 protectors (I hope). Around April or May, I plan to remove them to use the following year and place the rigid mesh protectors on them.

One article I read suggested using 10" tall rolled aluminum coil trim. Then cutting into 12" sections, rolling to form a cone shape with the top slightly smaller than the bottom and taping it. They also suggested using a stryoform cup with several holes poked in the top placed on top of the tubes until the seeds started putting on top growth.

Just thought I would share my experiences from the past year. I continue to look for ideas on ways to improve my chances for success and thank others here on the forums for sharing their knowledge and experiences.

Wow!! Good growth on that Dunstan
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  #10  
Old 11-10-2012, 02:52 PM
booner21 booner21 is offline
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I tried chicken wire to protect dco last year. The seedlings are doing fine however it was a giant pain in the butt to cut the chicken wire in sections and then install. I have two rolls of wire I have setting because it was such a pain. I would definitely order mesh tubes without any question or second thought. I had high hopes Of making it work and saving some money but the time factor was way not even close to worth it.
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