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  #601  
Old 03-16-2013, 09:10 PM
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Thanks indianasam44 and yoder. I'll make sure nuts (cotyledons) are removed. As for the transition to outdoors. Any suggestions on the hardening to go from inside plants to outdoor.
Yoder - I do not have specific root maker pots. What I did for the majority of the trees was cut replacement screening (into various sizes) to create various width pots. Hoping to achieve air pruning effect.
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  #602  
Old 03-16-2013, 09:32 PM
yoderj@cox.net yoderj@cox.net is offline
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My plan for transition is this:

- First, I'm currently running 16 hour days with my lights. I will look up the day length for my planned planting day and begin to adjust my lighting to match that.

- A couple weeks before planting, I will kill the heaters in the indoor greenhouses. This will let the temperature fluctuate with my house temperature which has a setback thermostat.

- On good weather days a couple weeks before planting, I may put my trays on the deck in the morning and take them back in in the evening.

I'm not sure if this is necessary with seedling this young, but I want to maximize my success.

Thanks,

Jack
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  #603  
Old 03-16-2013, 09:58 PM
indianasam44 indianasam44 is offline
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For hardening off I do something similar to yoderj. Even though its "labor intensive" any day when the temperature outside is above freezing I move all my seedlings out onto a south facing deck. The sun is still far enough "down" at noon for the atmosphere to filter out most of the harmful ultraviolet part of the light spectrum. This way the plants get gradually hardened off. They don't seem to complain about the large temperature swing they encounter. If you wait longer before first exposure, say mid to late April, you must be more careful to gradually increase the direct exposure. For example, start with a one hour exposure at around noon and then add 15 minutes each day over a period of two to three weeks.
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  #604  
Old 03-17-2013, 10:12 AM
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Default Sounds like plan

Thx for advice. The plants I have pictured are in a SW facing sun room. I suspect that with the natural light they are getting, They maybe ok. The other 100+ in my basement under lights will have to get the gradual exposure. Ironically, the first few I tried in window exploded with top growth, then faded to stems. I put them back in basement, an seem to be recovering nicely. Suspect at this point it had to do with a root system that was very immature.
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  #605  
Old 03-28-2013, 06:11 PM
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Default Various trees

Here are my Indianasam seedlings and three Dunstans from Walmart. They shipped the Northern shipments on the 25th. I've enjoyed reading this forum and kicked off my own chestnuts this year. Makes for a fun winter project germinating and planting chestnuts.

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  #606  
Old 03-28-2013, 09:19 PM
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I transplanted a few of my chestnuts from larry this week. Moved them from express cells to 1 gallon rootmaker pots. Tree's look good. Once again I have had a difficult time getting these things germinated. Not sure if i'm just too anxious and don't leave in the fridge long enough or what. I bought 18 seeds and I got 6 nice trees, 1 of which is a runt.







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  #607  
Old 03-29-2013, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by CrazyED View Post
I transplanted a few of my chestnuts from larry this week. Moved them from express cells to 1 gallon rootmaker pots. Tree's look good. Once again I have had a difficult time getting these things germinated. Not sure if i'm just too anxious and don't leave in the fridge long enough or what. I bought 18 seeds and I got 6 nice trees, 1 of which is a runt.
Ed, you must be too anxious and not let them stratify long enough. I've always got 95-98% germination with chestnuts without any special tricks. Just peat moss in an open ziplock gallon bag with a moist paper towel at the top.
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  #608  
Old 04-04-2013, 08:22 AM
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Have had much success with trees growing, some already 2 ft tall. Would you gentlemen with more experience advocate using tubes or cages when planting. Have read that some use short tubes, but don't see advantage due to their height vs the detriment of the trees growing too much an being too spindly.
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  #609  
Old 04-04-2013, 08:40 AM
ROS VEGAS ROS VEGAS is offline
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I am debating on when to plant my chestnut seedlings in their permanant location.

I planted the sprouting ( some were) nuts on 2/5. They have been infront of south facing basement window, cool, no direct sun. As expected, they are growing slow.

I plan on hardening them off like any other plant....slow/short exposeure to direct sun and wind conditions. When appropiate, I'll transplant into larger pots....1-3 gallons.

I haven't decided it I want to transplant them into the ground this fall....or wait until next spring. THe prepping for the location has a lot more work to be done. I have a small hilltop behing the house that I have clear cut....trees were mostly all small crooked wild cherry. Lots of brush/firewood to clean up.

Any advantages to a fall planting versus a 2014 spring planting?


I also may be coming into some American chestnut seedlings dfrom the ACF....I'll have my hands full tending trees this year.
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  #610  
Old 04-04-2013, 09:57 AM
Massey135 Massey135 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWP View Post
Have had much success with trees growing, some already 2 ft tall. Would you gentlemen with more experience advocate using tubes or cages when planting. Have read that some use short tubes, but don't see advantage due to their height vs the detriment of the trees growing too much an being too spindly.

I've had great success using a 5 ft tube for the first year, then removing it and caging the second year. Most trees will be out of the tube by fall.
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  #611  
Old 04-14-2013, 10:33 PM
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just something I found to be interesting, I put some nuts in gallon size ziploc bags and some in sandwich size. The ones in the gallon size seem to all sprout well the smaller bags very few sprouted. Does anyone know why that may be, I know for next year the ones I want to direct seed will go into small bags.
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  #612  
Old 05-08-2013, 10:52 PM
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Default Heavy Rain and Gallon Rootmakers

I'm looking for input on members who have grown chestnuts and used the gallon or larger rootmaker pots. I'm using Promix BX potting soil.

First question is on watering. How do you water without over watering? When you do water do you pour in water and let it soak in until water comes out the lower holes? Right now the seedlings roots are only taking up the upper 2" of the pots.

My next question is on what you do if a large rainfall is expected? We are expecting 1-2" in the next 36 hours. Will the pots drain sufficiently or should I put them under cover? The seedlings are in 1 gallon rootmaker pots that sit on a raised screen so there's plenty of airflow and drainage if the Promix will drain properly. I just don't want the chestnuts to get wet feet and damp off. Most are 15" to 2' in height.
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  #613  
Old 05-08-2013, 11:17 PM
yoderj@cox.net yoderj@cox.net is offline
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I'm using Farfard 3B but I think BX is even better drained. Most of the trees I have left are in 5" bags, but I have a couple in High 5 rootbuilder pots. I planted all of the ones I had in 1 gal root builder pots.

I used a simply moisture meter to decide when to water. Within a particular container type, they were reasonably consistent. I got to the point where I would test about 1/2 dozen and then water them all accordingly. I always drowned mine and let the water pour out the holes and then don't water until the moisture meter says to water again.

I will be installing a drip irrigation system for my remaining container chestnuts this weekend. I'm not really sure how to set it, especially to account for spring rain.
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  #614  
Old 05-08-2013, 11:30 PM
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Thanks Jack. What model meter do you have? Where do I purchase? Local, Amazon, Home Depot, etc?
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  #615  
Old 05-08-2013, 11:46 PM
yoderj@cox.net yoderj@cox.net is offline
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I can't vouch for anything since this is my first time around. They probably have similar stuff at lowes and home depot. When I did my poking around to learn a little about drip irrigation I found the web site at Irrigation Direct to be helpful. They have lots of videos and tutorials for setup. I only have about 25 trees that I will be keeping through the summer so I decided to simply order a kit that I can expand later if needed.

Here is what I ordered:

Item Qty Brief Description Rate Amount
DD-DWT673 1 Drip Pro Digital Water Timer 3/4" FHT Inlet x 3/4" MHT Outlet $29.90 $29.90
DK-CGM 1 Drip Irrigation Kit for Container Gardening - Patios & Decks - Medium $27.50 $27.50
Total $57.40


It is supposed to arrive tomorrow and I hope to install it this weekend. I'll let you know how it works out.

Thanks,

Jack
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  #616  
Old 05-09-2013, 06:42 AM
indianasam44 indianasam44 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michbowhunter View Post
just something I found to be interesting, I put some nuts in gallon size ziploc bags and some in sandwich size. The ones in the gallon size seem to all sprout well the smaller bags very few sprouted. Does anyone know why that may be, I know for next year the ones I want to direct seed will go into small bags.

It's all a matter of excess moisture. If you notice condensed water on the sides of the bags then eventually seeds in contact with this moisture will germinate. I have this happen occasionally. The problem is that you don't want the seeds to dry out in storage so it's tricky to keep the right moisture level. You want to keep the seeds viable without having them germinate until you want them to. Why bag size would make a difference I'm not sure but I would guess it has something to do with moisture level. I store in quart-size bags because I find them convenient. To get the seeds to germinate I just splash a little water on them so the seed surfaces are moist (it doesn't take much) and they usually germinate in a couple of weeks.
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  #617  
Old 05-30-2013, 08:45 PM
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Here's a good chestnut growing manual that covers just about all the questions, soil, location, clipping radical, fertilizing, tubes, caging, orchard spacing, etc.

http://www.acf.org/pdfs/resources/planting_manual.pdf
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  #618  
Old 05-30-2013, 09:49 PM
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Chestnuts have overtaken Mulberry as the most preferred browse on my place. All of them need to be caged! I removed a cage on my biggest one, and a buck top killed it.
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  #619  
Old 05-30-2013, 09:58 PM
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You're scaring me! Mine are just in tubes. So far, no significant deer damage. Perhaps they haven't learned yet...
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  #620  
Old 06-07-2013, 01:20 PM
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Default Leaf Out/Dying of Cold?

Our property is located in Northwestern Wisconsin and it gets a little cold during the winters. Last year I planted some Dunstan's that did great during the summer. Most grew out of the tubes or were near the top of the tubes. As of last weekend, almost all other trees have already leafed out and some of my apple trees are just starting to flower. However, the Dunstan's haven't leafed out and the buds aren't looking real great either. Anyone know if they just leaf out later than most other trees or is it possible the Dunstan's weren't able to handle the cold?
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