What fertilizer

[MO Bowhunter]

What fertilizer would you recommend using on a depleted clover field that is going to be planted to soybeans? I have not taken a soil test on it this year.

[hrcarver]

is recommended by the soil test last year?

Even if it didn't need anything, I'd still put 80 units per acre of potash.

[broom_jm]

Without a soil test, I wouldn't apply fertilizer or soybeans to the field. At least get a general idea what is there or you're swinging with yer eyes shut.

[criggster]

A soil test is the only way to know. Get one first and then you will know exactly what you need instead of guessing.

[LetMGrow]

I will never understand why anyone would consider buying lime, seed, spraying an area, working for hours tilling an area, spreading fertilizer, spreading seed, covering it etc etc and not spend a few minutes and a few bucks doing a soil test. It just makes no sense at all.
A good soil test costs $15 here done through the Cooperative Extension Service. They send the samples to their host University and get comprehensive results for you and give you recommendations for ammendments to your soil, not just for the planting season but 2-3 subsequent years. All this is based on what you tell them you intend to plant. If you don't understand what anything means the folks there will sit down with you and go over the results with you. I have even had a specialist come to my property and look at it. This was done at no charge as part of their service.
With fertilizer selling for over $20 today you could easily spend needless dollars on either too much fertilizer or the incorrect blend. Trying to feed a plant something that is bad for it is worse than not feeding it at all.
If someone wants to do a cheap plot, just mow the area, buy the cheapest seed you can find, throw some around and probably something will come up.
Alot of folks will use the excuse " I'm just feeding deer, I'm not a farmer ".
Good Luck,
Lynn

P.S. Read my signature.

[MO Bowhunter]

Originally Posted by LetMGrow

I will never understand why anyone would consider buying lime, seed, spraying an area, working for hours tilling an area, spreading fertilizer, spreading seed, covering it etc etc and not spend a few minutes and a few bucks doing a soil test. It just makes no sense at all.
A good soil test costs $15 here done through the Cooperative Extension Service. They send the samples to their host University and get comprehensive results for you and give you recommendations for ammendments to your soil, not just for the planting season but 2-3 subsequent years. All this is based on what you tell them you intend to plant. If you don't understand what anything means the folks there will sit down with you and go over the results with you. I have even had a specialist come to my property and look at it. This was done at no charge as part of their service.
With fertilizer selling for over $20 today you could easily spend needless dollars on either too much fertilizer or the incorrect blend. Trying to feed a plant something that is bad for it is worse than not feeding it at all.
If someone wants to do a cheap plot, just mow the area, buy the cheapest seed you can find, throw some around and probably something will come up.
Alot of folks will use the excuse " I'm just feeding deer, I'm not a farmer ".
Good Luck,
Lynn

P.S. Read my signature.

I have done a many of soil test on my plots. Just happened to not have done one on this plot this year. Posted wanting to know what would be a good fertilizer to use without a test as i have seen many recommend fertilizer for other crops without a test. I found out it is going to be a few weeks before i can start working the plot so i went out today and collected soil for the test. I believe it's 12 bucks through our extension office.
If i wanted to do a cheap plot i would probably just plow up an area and throw some fertilizer on it and let the weeds grow. I promise you the deer would like it.
Thanks for your help.

[banc123]

I'm using 150lbs per acre each of Triple Super Phosphate and Potash. I've found little variation on the K needs from plot to plot, but the P needs do tend to vary a little. I try to soil test, but sometimes it doesn't work out. I'm fairly confident in 3rd and 4th year plantings , but 1st year results are a cra* shoot.

I tend to stick with those two as my primary mean to get the P and K. If I need N, thats easy enough to add. Found that to be WAY cheaper than blends for me.