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HabitatMD
08-22-2006, 08:50 AM
Anyone shooting this set-up? I tuned it up and I've got my WB extended to the left about as far and she will go and was curious if anyone with the same set-up has seen this.

Younghunter
08-22-2006, 10:46 AM
So your WB is way left of true center shot, but because you were getting left tears when you paper tuned, you kept moving it left to eliminate this? Is that correct?

Your arrow spine could also affect this. A left tear would mean your arrow spine is too weak, which means to decrease poundage, decrease point weight, shorten arrow, or buy stiffer arrows.

what kind of arrows are you using and at what length? What poundage are you pulling? What's the weight of your broadheads/feild points?

-Matt

HabitatMD
08-22-2006, 11:28 AM
I was getting a tear like this -x until I kept moving the rest left as your holding the bow and now I'm not too far from x.

lbs= 58.5#
100 grain point
29" draw
Carbon Express Maximas 250s

I will have to measure arrow length when I get home. I was a little concerned because the arrows were cut at the end of the risor to allow for broadhead clearance.

The cams on the Allegiance are offset to the left side of the limb center, so it make sense for the rest to be further out. I just don't have that warm and fuzzy feeling quite yet.

Thanks for the help.

Younghunter
08-22-2006, 03:12 PM
hmmm... something doesn't seem right.

if you were getting a tear like --x where the x is your fletchings and the -- is your shaft that means the back of your arrow is kicking out to the right which means you should move your rest to the right, but that doesn't make any sense that moving your rest to the left would have made the tear look better.

Do you have one of those tools to set up true center shot? I would suggest going back to that as your starting point. Then if you shoot fixed blade broadheads try to get them to fly like your feild points. Or if you don't use fixed blade broadheads, use a bare shafted arrow (no fletchings) don't shoot too far away, maybe 10-15 yards at first, and see where that bare arrow ends up and how it hits the target. Try to get the bare arrow to match up with your fletched arrows.

Are you shooting the maximas from carbon express or the maxima hunters? Either way your set-up is borderline between using the 250s and the 350s so your arrow spine might be a little on the weak side. I'm guessing that since your draw length is 29" and your arrows are cut to clear the riser, that your arrow length is somewhere around 30 1/2". If you look at the carbon express charts, for a 30" arrow at 58-63 pound draw weight they recommend the maxima 350s. You could stiffen up the arrow by cutting it closer to your rest, but just make sure your not going to have problems with your broadheads. What broadheads are you using?

HabitatMD
08-22-2006, 05:08 PM
I've got a few broadheads to try. 100 grain muzzies, 100 grain thunderheads, and I'm going to try a friends broadhead, can't remember the name right now. I've got some mechanicals as well.

Sounds like I need to head back to the bowshop, of course, I'm not convinced some of the guys at the shop know what they are doing (not that I'm any better right now).

Do you have any websites that you can recommend for initial set-up/tuning?

Carbon express is the maker of the arrow. I just looked on the Carbon Express website and I saw the info you gave above. Sounds like I need to either cut my arrows as short as I can tolerate or drop the poundage a fuzz or I need to buy some new arrows (not cheap).

Younghunter
08-22-2006, 09:29 PM
I stopped going to bowshops for tuning my bow because it always seems like they end up screwing something up or setting something a certain way that I didn't like, and then I would just tinker around with it in the end anyways.

Did the bowshop set you up with the arrows... you could take them back and be like, you guys recommended these arrows to me... but look at the charts, they are underspined and trade them in for the 350s. They should take them back and exchanged them for the right arrows.

Otherwise, you could cut your arrows down so that they only extend about a 1/2" past your rest. You really shouldn't have a problem with broadhead clearance, especially if you end up shooting mechanicals. One more thing you could do is decrease your tip weight, but I wouldn't recommend that because the maximas are already a pretty light arrow and you wouldn't want to reduce your arrow weight anymore. Your going to want the extra arrow weight for penetration.

http://www.pabucks.com/bowsetup.html
this is a good sight for basic stuff about setting up your bow. If you look at the navigation bar on the left hand side, there will be stuff about paper tuning, draw length, broadead tuning...etc

As far as broadheads... if you are having problems tuning and getting good arrow flight mechanicals are going to be your best friend, but if you can get good flight out of fixed blade broadheads like the muzzies or thunderheads they are proven to penetrate better and be more durable. Personally I shoot rocket sidewinders, they are mechanicals, I shoot them because they cut a 1 1/2" hole whereas the thunderheads I used to shoot cut a 1 3/16" hole. I still keep a thunderhead in my quiver though. I have them both flying the same. I might make the switch back to fixed blades someday.

-Matt

HabitatMD
08-22-2006, 10:09 PM
Alright, I need to stop going to that bow shop. I swear! I've been shooting for quite a while, can't say I've tuned too many bows, but my technique is not the worst in the world. How can you shoot at 10 yds and then step back to 20 yds and shoot 6" higher. The guy at the counter thought he would show me how it would shoot through paper and how his technique was superior, and well and he couldn't get a good tear. He then put a broadhead on the arrow and made me shoot. Again shot at 10 yds and 20 yds and was 6" higher at 20.

The guy at the bow shop said my arrows were 28" on the cutting devise so I ceased to worry about the spine. My arrow is slightly over 29 1/4" as measure with a tape measure without a field point from insert to knock. What a jack#@*! Again right at the cut off. I don't understand how draw lengths are calculated, but I could take another 1" off without any problems and put the spine issue to rest, but I didn't think I had to while I was there. The 250s should work!

Maybe I'm the jack#@* for not listening to him, but I don't believe a thing he said.

Sorry to vent........

Thanks for the help and the time Younghunter. I appreciate it.

cummins5.9
08-23-2006, 11:16 AM
Sorry to hear about your problems, HabitatMD. Personally, I would look into finding a different proshop. They are like anything else, some are good, some aren't. I'm lucky and have a pretty good one.